The road goes ever and on Down from the door where it began Now far ahead the Road has gone, And I must follow, if I can, Pursuing it with eager feet, Until it joins some larger way Where paths and errands meet. And whither then? I cannot say. -Bilbo Baggins

1.29.2008

Timing

I must have been lucky so far. Since Australia is so connected with the rest of the world the news here isnt hard to see or hear. So when I'm sitting at the local food court in Sydney watching the flatscreen news TV I find out Beijing is buried under a blizzard? And especially when most travel is during the Chinese New Years - believe me I know its gonna get busy. But Im just glad Im not stranded there. Well I suppose the point is, I didnt plan on avoiding Beijing during this time. Just so happened to work out that way. And just so happened to work out that I landed in Melbourne on Australia Day weekend, and Barcelona on Merce Festival weekend, and Istanbul during PKK protest days, etc. Well its a nice change to see news everywhere.

And for some reason Australians are very keen on US politics. Like Bush's State of the Union was being televised live during lunch in Sydney. Its funny because I doubt anyone back home cares much for Aussie politics. I didnt watch; was more entralled with the fact that I knew the group sitting next to me were Thai. You can tell when you hear "mnak mnak wack nyak" or something nasaly like that really loud. At least for me its kinda neat to be able to pinpoint languages somewhat better now.

What else can I pinpoint? Landmarks. Like you know what these are:...the Bayonne Bridge!
...AND MORE TO COME WHEN I GET BACK ONLINE! Somewhere in New Zealand =)

Me!bourne

I dont know what I can say about Melbourne other than it is one of the coolest cities in Oz! I feel the artsy culture here. There's a good vibe in the city with all these small neighborhoods that are reminiscent of St Marks Place in nyc and NoDa in Charlotte. I feel the character that beckons you to stay longer. So i'll show ya why Melbourne is cool. I stayed on Chapel Road. Its colorful to say the least. A 10 minute metro ride gets you into Flinders Street and Federation Square. Where this week the Aussies were going nuts over the Australian Open in town...watching the matches live on the big screen here.Just around the corner is Melborune CBD (what we call downtown every city in Oz likes to refer as Central Business District).

Like I mentioned, there's a lot of arty character in Melbern (in Aussie dialect it sounds more like melb-burne or something like that). Maybe there were more people out because this past weekend it was Australia Day (like our 4th of July) and more odd characters decided to come out of the woodworks. Like the Aussie version of the Aquabats!






This kid had to have been the best of anything I had seen performed on the street yet. Like he was jamming out some good rock tunes - playing the guitar and drums with the same hand, singing and playin a harmonica with the same mouth, and using the same two feet for the symbol thing and base (which was integrated into his suitcase/speaker amp = ingenious). And with the voice changer thing nicely mounted to the drum coming out of the blowhorn it made for some sounds worthy of YouTube or at least some TV reality talent show, whatevers the thing to see these days I have no clue haha. And with a huge crowd he was making mad loot. Not a bad gig. Neither is street art or selling random souvenirs, food and jewelry at Victoria Market seen here.
Down in St Kilda near the beach has one of those cool amusement parks we see in movies. At least it looked cool at night. So thats Melbourne, I spent a few days here and must go back! And go back to experience the true Aussie culture. Which is pretty similar to ours back in the states with a few exceptions...like the language. Yes its English, but its Australish or something. Sunnies? Nappies? I think they take words and just shorten them. At least their plastic feeling money is some of the most colorful Ive seen around the planet.

1.24.2008

Aussie-land (updated with pics!)

Its waaay too hot out here in Australia. Perth is quite a nice town too. Everyone is super friendly and you get smiles from random strangers on the street and even as you sit in shops on the street watching everyone go by. It feels almost like Charlotte, NC out here with the way the city is setup and all. Only difference is people get out and walk all over this small city in the state of Western Australia. I had planned to take a train from here all the way over to Melbourne. A three day journey across the outback. But too bad for me it sold out - guess everyones going east to see the Australian Open and whatnot. Besides it was a bunch of old people waiting to roll outta here and I wasnt gonna drop $1300 for the last gold sleeper seats left. Thats a little harsh, so of course this will have to wait for another time in the way future - when im like old or something haha.
So that left me here in Perth a few more days to do whatever. And getting around the city is easy - free bus transport everywhere! Cant beat that yo.
One of these days in Perth I took a metro down to the port city of Freemantle. Good fish and chips - maybe some that can rival what you get in London. So after catching the lovely sunset upon the Indian Ocean it was time to head to the Fremantle Prison. Heard the torchlight tours were the thing to do so thus I did. Back in the day there were "heaps" of convicts who built most of Fremantle, including this prison for themselves.


A neat thing about the place was some of the artwork left on walls by prisoners. They were kinda bored I suppose. At times if they got in trouble, they'd get the whip or cataraks? The thing with like 9 ends that scars you for life. Its actually where the term "dont let the cat out of the bag" and "cat got your toungue?" came from...because the prisoner feared that catarak coming out of the bag or if the whipped ends hit his toungue as he screamed in pain. They showed us this thing but I didnt take a picture in the dark. What I did take a photo of was the gallows. A fair number of death row inmates never made it out of this room.
I made it out and came upon a sign at the ancient train station saying the metro was cancelled for the rest of the night. So they provide free buses for the 45 minute journey back to Perth - cant beat that. I got on and asked the driver so how much? He was like "fthree". so im rumbling for Australian coins when he's like no "fre--eeee". Oh I get it, you were speaking Australian haha. Its a different english dialect out here - some say even another language. Mad confusing sometimes. Today in East Perth in this little deli I order a chicken salad sandwich and the lady was like you want bhuttah on that? Im like what? Butthah! as she made the butter spread hand gesture. Im like oh you put butter on sandwiches here and no mayo? Weird. But thats australia for ya. They even eat chicken flavored potato chips.
Tastes like really bad sour cream and onion haha. And Hungry Jacks tastes and looks awfully close to Burger King!

Off to get my flight to Melbourne...

1.21.2008

Its been a while since the last post aye?

Someone recently posed me the question when I told them I was from NYC and on a prolonged "holiday" as they like to call travelling: "why would you leave new york city?" Well its simple - to see the rest of the world and what else is out there. Cant live under the shadows of the Big Apple all your life. So as I continue this adventure I occasionally end up in places (like China the last few weeks) where posting isnt as easy or feasible. But here it is...so read down...like 7 posts ago and start there =) Enjoy.

Taipei last week

I returned to Taipei but didnt really do much other than chill with the family still out there. I've seen the city before and still know it pretty well but Jessica still gave me a good local tour. At least we did all the good food rounds. Like Kao Tien (rectangle dumplings) and Jen Ju Nai Cha - some sort of milk tea with little googey balls in it. Spectacular tasting too. What else tastes good here? Shenbing - like a dumpling but in hamburger formAnd the McDonalds double decker filet o fish. I just had to try it.
Its a good city to be born in. A place where...

The old people chill in the park all dayThe local kids hang out in hip Ximen
The students all wear color coded clothing to signify which high school they attend
And they retrofit their hair in funky ways


Its a place where porn advertisements are displayed on backs of bikes

Weird guys like this hang out


The people selling food (illegally on the street) in rollaway carts run away as soon as the cops show up


So they cant sell their Frog eggs

You can get more than just Frog eggs at the Shilin Night Market


Everyone rides a moped or motorcycle


The Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall still stands



But just a month ago the Nationalist Party decided to rename it to the National Taiwan Democracy Hall. I heard it caused some people to cry. It made me laugh because they forgot to change all the signs on the same board outside


And last but not least, Taipei is a place where the worlds tallest (finished) bulding stands. The Taipei 101 tower. At least until that monstrosity they're building in Dubai is completed.Off to the outback next.

Back to the roots: Taiwan

I decided since Taiwan is so close to Hong Kong that I would stop by again. I had previously been there two years ago. So this time around I ventured south to Kaohsiung with some family. The city had been previously noted for its abundant pollution, but when I rolled up it was quite refreshing, or something like that. Kaohsiung is famous for its night market seafood and the Love River - more like a tourist attraction ploy. Felt like Dublin or something with this famous Love River dividing the city up. The city is also divided by politics. Its a predominantly Blue Party-pro China type of town. Most of southern Taiwan is made of up people strongly associated with mainland China. But when you see a Green Party (Nationalist Party)-pro Taiwan independence or something-sign right here proclaiming their dominance over Taiwan its a bit stirring. I think this sign said something like the Blue Party sucks or whatever. The Green Nationalists just won a huge majority in the government too and wish to oust the current President who isnt in line with their lets make amends with the China mainland policy. At least one thing they want are more direct flights from Hong Kong and maybe other cities. Right now you can only fly to Taiwan from HK International if youre from China. Politics as usual here.

I was able to attend, or crash, however you see it, a Taiwanese wedding. My couisin was a bridesmaid for some distant folks in the clan. But I discovered its kinda different from western style weddings. No reservations, no need to dress up in a shirt and tie. I felt out of place rollin up in a Tashi shirt and cargo pants but apparently I fit right in. The bridge changes her dress three times though. No chuch vows, procession down the aisle or anything like that. In the morning the groom picks up the wife in a limo and rolls off. Until the evening when everyone converges at a restaurant for the wedding reception. There is when they do the walk down the aisle with bridgesmaids thing. And then you are served like 12 courses on one of those rotating tables where the food is shared with everyone at your table. And its customary to pack the leftovers and everything in the doggy bags supplied. The groom fits the bill too. It was interesting, especially when we had to roll out of there fast and catch the last super Taiwan bullet train north.


Instead of going all the way north, I stopped in Taichung with cousin Jessica. We met up with her friend Janine. For the chance at some all night KTV a.k.a. karaoke. They love their music in Taiwan. And they love their KTV. So much in fact, that they were singing from midnight to 8am straight. No joke. And its not like western karaoke...its Japanese style where you get your own little room with a disco ball type thing, giant screen TV to watch the songs video and sing to your friends. Free food all night too. Cant beat that. And they serve you your microphones on a plate too. Most of the songs were in Chinese anyway.





Did I sing till 8am? No, you all know me better than that. I passed out at 3am, occasionally waking up each hour to Jessica and Janine still dancing and singing away like Telletubbies. I spent a night in a KTV room. I walked outside and it was light out. Funny. It was time for breakfast.
Later on in the day we stolled thru yet another market. They all sell these vanilla character things.This LES sign gave me a good laugh. Yea, I miss the LES yo.

Sim City

Ya know, one of my favorite games has to be Sim City 4. Did you ever play it? Gets addicting sometimes. And did you ever build cities with lots of High Residential zones next to waterfronts, surrounded by mountains on cool little islands? Well thats how they figured Hong Kong would pan out as well. I think HK has to be in my top 5 favorite cities visited list, along with London, Paris, Cinque Terre and Istanbul. Not bad company aye?
I'll explain why Hong Kong is so appealing, way more than Beijing or Shanghai. Bruce Lee.

First off, the skyline here can rival what we got in Manhattan. And each night they put on a Symphony of Lights show where all the towers light up to music as you view from across the harbor in Kowloon. By far one of the coolest things I'd seen yet. Not only are the skyscrapers impressive, but the view from atop the Peak is like looking down on the city you just created with Sim City. Almost surreal. But mad scenic hiking trails along the mountain backdrop of the city itself provide for some of the best views on a good sunny day.

Actually I ventured off to other islands part of HK too. Lamma, the third largest, offered a nice ferry ride to one of the small towns there. Hiked from one end to the other and it was reminiscent of small villages I had seen in Belize. If you ignore the coal plant in the distance the sunset was nice haha. And the Lamma Wind power thing has become an attraction you can walk up to as well. Kinda scary staning under those wings - I mean if they fell off you're done.
Getting to HK island is easy as well, taking the famous Star Ferry which has been transporting locals for over 100 years. Strikingly familiar to the Staten Island Ferry. So when you get into the depths of HK itself you are lost (in admiration, not navigation) admist tall buildings and neat neighborhoods like SoHo.

There's a British influence left behind - double decker buses and trams as well as driving on the left side of the road. They even remind you like in London to:And quite a number of English speakers too. Its just a place with a good vibe. I feel it yo. I found this dim sum joint where only locals appeared to freqent - even though it was advertised in the tourist visitor center. So the dim sum here is so good its hard to get a seat anytime of the day. And when you do you have to fight for your own dim sum. Like we're used to an orderly procession of carts coming to your table. Not the case here. When the cart comes out of the kitchen, people flock to it and fight their way to the hot little buns and things. And good reason to as well. It was some good dim sum.What I didnt feel was the hostel on Kowloon - the mainland side of Hong Kong. Not one of the best Ive been to. It was on the 13th floor of the Mirador Mansion. Dont be fooled by the name, its hardly a mansion at all. Just a run down apartment complex where notices warning tenants who fail to pay up rent are scattered all over. Not that I expected luxury, either, as Mirador and their competitors at Chungking Mansion run all the hostels in Hong Kong. They're really dilapidated apartment buildings with 13 stories. Its an odd place to have a hostel and even more sketchy when you book with one hostel and find out the guy also runs the other 5 on in the building, but all under different names. But the 24 hour internet cafe on the 10th floor was alright. Not that this view from our balcony or any of the Nigerians trying to pawn fake Rolexes to you bothered me at all. Thats life on Kowloon and its infamous Nathan Road. But Hong Kong island is nice, with all their lucky cats too. We should all strive to go there one day. I am surely going to go back again.

Suzhou

I decided to get out of Shanghai and see some stuff outside of the city. At least an hour by train or something to Suzhou. They call it the Venice of the East because of all the canal waterways in the city. Well when I got there it was all a construction zone outside the train station. Not knowing where to go I just started walking and ran into some other tourists - a girl and her mom from Tokyo. At least we were the only ones who spoke English out there haha. So we found some nicer canals and went to some Chinese garden place. it was alright. They left early so I backtracked my way to the North Temple and of course was offered more massages, this time in Chinese haha. I wanted to find some ancient road called Ping Jiang that was a market or something so asked some kids in the dumpling shop I had lunch in. They didnt know but thats ok, they also pointed me to the train station. Yet I had like 2 hours to kill so decided to walk back the way we came by cab. At least I still remembered the roads. But the funny thing was that kid had followed me on his bike, trying to tell me the train station was the other way. Even without a map I knew he was giving me a short cut but I had to explain that I wanted to walk the long way haha. He had limited English but somehow told me "my girlfriend wanted me to help you find the train station". It was so nice of them since they thought I was totally lost in their city. But I explained I knew where I was going and the kid rode on, maybe thinking I was crazy.



For I think I was the only tourist going down that street, full of auto part stores and bike repair shops. I kinda ventured off the main road and onto some side alleys where I found this neat little local market. It looked old but im sure wasnt Ping Jiang Road. Still though it was kinda neat and almost felt like India, or the real China I suppose. Lots of weird foods being sold.
And I found the most awesome sesame sweet cookies so bought like a whole bag from the lady who ran a hole in the wall bakery on the street. I also got a bag of almond cookied, and thats after I kept going back to get one at a time haha. The kids selling them laughed at me and my crappy Chinese language counting skills.So with all my cookies I kept walking on and found that they lit up the canal area at night. All the Venice-like buildings and pagoda, which really looked a lot Japanese, had been decked out in cool lights. I just sat there for a while eating cookies along the canal and checkin out the scenery, which was now under the dark evening sky.


And the funniest part was a whole mob of Chinese ladies started doing their aerobics excercises under the pagoda at night. They were like dancing to funky sounding music, almost like 80s electronic music you'd find in a video game haha. Put that together with their funny dance moves and they all looked like synchronized telletubbies. It was almost amusing to watch.
As I walked back to the train station, I found some more Chinese telletubbies aerobics under bridges and even down dark demolisted alleyways. I guess its the thing to do in Suzhou at night. Not a bad place, but I doubt its on a level comparable to Venice. Worth the trip too because my train back was a super fast CRH bullet train. Which in fact, is the same make and model as the Japanese Shikansen bullet trains. So the technology has made its way over to China. Kinda cool cause I felt like I was going to northern Japan again.

In the Shanghai subway car we were moving along from the main station to Peoples Square back to the hostel. Some local kid was playing his cell phone music, movie or whatever it was too loud. I could tell it must have been the fight scene in the movie Transporter. As Im distracted by that, the kids sitting near me yelped mad loud so scared the crap out of me. I turned around and almost shit my pants because standing before me was The Fly. And also the reason why the kids yelped in horror. It was a man who had his face completely burnt. Like no ears, mouth, neck and his hands were burned as well. He sported a ski visor I guess to hide the eyes he didnt have; I think his daughter was accompanying him and guiding him along the moving car. It was a sad sight to see as she was fine, leading this burn victim along, begging for money. Just as bad as what I had witnessed while in India. You wouldnt expect to see it in a big city like Shanghai but I suppose with a billion people here the chances are not that slim to run into some unordinary things.

Walking out onto People Square I was still stunned. But there was a guy playing live electric acoustic guitar and singing on the sidewalk so it kinda put life back into focus. Well at least whatever normalcy we consider normal. He put up some good songs too, even if it were sung in Chinese, the musical sound of it was really good. I dropped him and pretty much every beggar on my way back to the hostel a dollar or two.

Shanghai

I suppose you would like to see Shanghai? Yes, I enjoyed being there. First, we gota talk about the food. It was awesome. Way better than Beijing. Especially on Wujiang Street where all the cheap eats are found. Like this joint: Yangs Fry Dumpling. The best dumplings yet - boiled and fried at the same time with a little dumpling soup inside - stupid good. I must have eaten there twice a day for 4 days straight no joke. A bowl of 4 cost like a dollar. When you see locals lining up for this place, you know its good. Sweet sesame cookies were abound in little shops like this. Never seen anything like it and they make it good here too.I stayed at Mingtown Etour International Youth Hostel - one of the nicest yet. Must be in my top 10 along this journey. A cool place hidden in this alley, surrounded by the tallest hotels in Shanghai. They even had a family of kittens living under the couch. Shanghai's tourist street is Nathan Road. When it lights up at night the Rolex watch dealers come out.

The skyline.

Did you know that Yao Ming hails from Shanghai?

Why Im not "Chinese": rant continued

Maybe its because of the way I look or dress? Im not sure but in China I stand out like a sore thumb as someone whos not from around here. Ironic too since I can blend in with the likes of Spaniards, Turks, Phillipinos, Nepalis, Indians, etc. The true testament to this came on my way to Shanghai. I booked an overnight train from Beijing on what they call a "hard seat". It was the lowest class available since all sleepers were booked. People were telling me oh no you must change that! Im like chill, Ive been on Indian trains I doubt it can get any worse elsewhere. And it was a pleasant surprise to see something other than a wooden bench in hard seat class. The train was still packed, tight and totally uncomfortable. The freakin hard seat was 90 degrees straight like an L. And with a billion people in China, all seats are taken so you're squashed in between mad people.
But the locals I got stuck with discovered real quick I sure as hell didnt understand Mandarin. I became the spotlight in our little section as everyone was trying to guess what I was and how could I not speak Chinese? I mean I half looked it.

There were two younger guys who became translators. So after a while it wasnt that bad of a place to be in, especially since I heard they jack your stuff on the trains. One of the "translators", Mark, was studying English in university. He had been speaking for years so the two of us had a coherent conversation the whole time, with the occasional question or two from the other onlookers in nearby seats. Thats him passed out on the hard seat there. This guy smiling was real curious about me, the Chinese looking westerner.Meeting Mark provided me an opportunity to find out what its like from the Chinese population perspective. So when I asked why are there no Lonely Planets about China in the bookstore? His reply was because maybe no one wants or needs to know where to go in China. Theres no market for the book. He also cited the fact that if I were to travel within the US from NY to Cali, I wouldnt break out a travel guide book, either. That may be so, but it wasnt a function of whether or not theres a market for the book, its a matter of why wont the Chinese government approve such western material on China? I wasnt going to win this battle because I could see the insider perspective from China is quite different.
When asked will the Olympic stadium area in Beijing be done on time and why not finish early so the facilities could be used by the Chinese beforehand? His response was well the government will save money if they build it slowly and use it just for the games. So they will demolish the Olympic park after the games are over? No, they may use it for local sports. My point exactly, why not also use it before and after the grand events?

I could sense his answers were not "Communist" answers or something else like excuses. Its just the way I think people perceive things here when theres a lot being regulated behind the scenes. Like the news and media. So their perspective might be a little influenced by whats being approved and transmitted across the airwaves. We went on to compare the differences in the education, social, political and economical differences between the US and China. Everyone there also bombarded me with questions like why cant it be easy for us to get a Visa when its easy for an American to? For that I dont know, since the US appears to have an immigration issue these days with emphasis on securing the borders. But its true, with my passport I can pretty much go anywhere except Iran haha. But Mark also said the US has signed a lot of travel treaties with all of these countries like China. But if thats the case, how come I am sitting here on this train to Shanghai and you're not even allowed to step foot in JFK? The possibe answer according to Mark: theres 1.3 billion people in China. Too many wanting a US visa.

Which brings up the next point. Is China really the next economic superpower? We hear it on CNBC but when I see it for myself Im not too sure. Mark mentioned 1 percent of the billion population are wealthy and as I can see there is a huge disparity between the middle class and poor. Hundreds of thousands still starve and beg for food here. People make a dollar a day slaving away in factories. I read an article that all the mannequins made on earth originate from hand labor of Chinese factory workers. They're paid more to do that line of work because the fiberglass dust can kill you. But they do it because making more than a dollar a day is more important than their health. Theres no minimum wage. There are no other jobs. Peasants who find work in a factory must keep that job, because if they're picky, theres another guy lined up to take it. Thats what happens when you have a billion people all looking for work thats not so abundant. Which is why half of them seek a US visa to work in American factories. And the other half end up begging on the street. Maybe Chinas economy is booming because there are so many people willing to work at such decrepid wages that profits soar. So the rich get richer and poor stay poorer. In Shanghai I saw lots of mothers on the street sending their kids out to beg for money. Soon the economic bubble will burst.
At times, it might already have. Mark has a friend with a PhD from Beijing Uni, the tops in China, and its not recognized in Taiwan. They cant get a PhD salary in Taiwan and instead must start from the bottom of the wage pole. All because of politcs between the two nations. Or provinces as China sees it. I brought up the point that maybe a US citizen can walk up to Narita Airport and get a Japanese visa in an instant, when a Chinese national cannot. Why? Because China still has some resentment over what Japan did back in WWII. And I told Mark theres an Anti Japanese War Memorial in Beijing - you wonder why you cant get a visa? I think by then a light went off in his head.

So thats the way it is here in China at least from one humans perspective. Because like Robocop said: "we're all human right?" We shouldnt differentiate others because they're Communist, green, Democratic, Muslim, left wing, Hindu, a goth, Christian, black and white cookie or Buddhist. I hope some day it will be equal like that in China. We should all appreciate our McJobs in America.

this is my rant about China

People constantly spit on the streets in China. And in restaurants. Its like normal to spit everywhere. And smoke. A lot. Everywhere. Even on buses. They also constantly check your 100 RMB bills - the USD equivalent of 15 bucks but the largest bill in circulation in China. Reason being is the ton of fake money floating around. The paranoia is so extensive that even I - am checking all my bills for their validity. I dont get too paranoid crossing the streets here though. Only say this because the system is the direct opposite of what we're used to. In Beijing, cars go first, then bikes, then humans. So when I see the little green walk light I dont walk. Because vehicles continually blow their red lights on any and all turns and they dont yeild an inch to humans. You can literally wait until the green walk sign is flashing and then cross when its red - as the other cross traffic is oncoming. Kind of like jaywalking - but at a crosswalk. Isnt that a paradox?

On another spectrum there's your typical Communist style influence goin down. Like I noticed an Anti-Japanese War Monument on my Beijing map? Later I discovered the Chinese still resent the fact that the Japanese invaded half a century ago. So they killed a few hundred thousand Chinese. Yet the government makes it seem like all the hatred must be put on the Japenese to cloak the injustices Mao commited against his own people - killing off countless Chinese. An interesting note - I went to the Foreign Book Store in Beijing just to see what I could not purchase. A book on Mao was vividly absent from a shelf of world dictators like Hitler and Stalin. Books on Tibetan Buddhism and the Dalai Lama must be shipped to China in futuristic transparent leaves and bindings these days because they're nonexistent in this country. Even Lonely Planet, Fodors and whatever else guidebooks on China are plainly absent amongst all the other Lonely Planets showcasing every country in Europe, Asia and the Americas. If you want a guide on China or Beijing you have to purchase the government approved - and proably written - published guidebooks which exclaim to be "the true source" of travel expertise on China. But to be fair, I did run across a few China guidebooks in cities other than Beijing.
But I did find books on Tibet. Yet clearly psychologically mind warping type books, obviously with a greater intent in mind on killing off the Tibetan culture. Books with titles like "Collecting and Selling Tibetan antiques" and "Hunting for antelopes in Tibet". So we're supposed to find, take, kill and sell off all Tibetan antiques and animals from the plateau. Even the Chinese atlases are skewed. It shows Tibet as an "autonomous region" within China and Taiwan as one of China's "provinces". Go look at any western map and Taiwan is an independent nation. There was one other troubling title in stock on the shelves that day. "Notes from Tibet", written by "reporters" about the "current situation and stories of life in Tibet today". Of course I perused through this 400 page masterpiece and was not shocked to see how the Communist government bends the real truth known to everyone outside of China. The book comes off like its a bunch of real life stories on daily Tibetan life taken by real reporters who went there. But it was some odd reporting, because it read like the 10 or whatever steps outlined in the Scientific Theory. Ya know, the thesis is stated, "facts" are given, conclusions are drawn and then attempted to be proven on based on experiments - or in this case, reporters doing their investigation. But not their homework.
Because the Dalai Lama did not start a violent rebellion in 1951. The Chinese army was called upon to quell the rebellion started by the Tibetans? No, im sorry, its more like the Tibetans, already a peaceful nation and culture, tried to defend themselves against the invasion of the Chinese army in 1949.
Apparently, this book claims China took upon itself to peacefully liberate Tibet and help it advance beyond its simple existence. The Peoples Liberation of Tibet is a nice way of saying "we really took over a free nation by force".
Based on these reporters' research and findings, 86 percent of Tibetans believe that the Dalai Lama is a "separtist and a politician". Not a religioius figure at all. How interesting because what I think really happened was 86 percent of Tibetan monks have been tortured by the Chinese army into vowing allegiance to the Communist party and renouncing their belief that the Dalai Lama is their spiritual leader. If you torture people into saying His Holiness is a separtist, then obviously reporters will dig out such a blasphemous statistic. The ironic thing? Recently the Dalai Lama stripped himself of all political clout within the Tibetan Government in Exile in Dharamsala. Today he is only the religious and spiritual leader of the Tibetan people and not even a member, nor a part of, the Tibetan government. Just because he is like a figurehead or spokesman for our people at international shindigs doesnt make him an advocate for separtism.
Here's another one. 95 percent of people living in Tibet are Tibetan? Thats hard to believe given the newly opened Beijing to Lhasa railway that has made the population of Tibet explode into millions of newly immigrated Chinese settlers. In fact, there are more Chinese in Tibet today than there are Tibetans.
The government is facilitating free religion in Tibet but somehow wont allow anyone to hold up a picture of His Holiness the Dalai Lama. Its forbidden like holding up a plaque of David Ortiz in Yankee Stadium.
I was almost fascinated by the sterness of each reporters willingness to curtail rumors and prove them with false facts and comments on the current situation in Tibet. Im pretty convinced the government fabricated everything to give a picture of what they want their brainwashed population to believe. They couldnt even spell the name of one of the "Tibetan reporters Doje". Its Dorje you stupid morons. Obviously the editor wasnt Tibetan, either.
The book claimed Tibetan children are learning traditional Tibetan culture and receiving Tibetan education in schools there. How can this be so when pretty much every kid in Tibet is forced to learn Chinese as the only language? And those are just the ones who stay. A majority of them are sent off by their parents to Dharamsala on a 2 month journey across the Himalayas. I've seen this first hand while I was there. The TCV's all over India supply housing, food and the real Tibetan cultural education lacking today in Lhasa. Its a sad story when these kids are forced to leave their country as refugees for a better life in India. They sometimes never see their parents again. And thats if they survive the journey thru the Himalayan mountain passes and are smuggled successfully over the borders. When they do make it, they receive an audience with the Dalai Lama and are given everything TCV provides. Its remarkable how much they've done - building by hand over the course of 8 years their own soccer field, putting together computer classes, providing dorms even if managed by one mother for every 35 kids and countless other things. Sadly enough, a better life awaits the future Tibetan generations outside of Tibet. Support one today.
I learned its a difficult situation out there - both socially and politically. Kind of hard to push for liberation and a "Free Tibet". The Dalai Lama calls for an autonomous Tibet now. Make peace with your enemy. His Holiness has genuine compassion for the Chinese government. It wont be in this life that we see Tibet free, liberated or autonomous. Only because the world is not really aware of whats really going on there. Its obvious citizens within China are taught to think otherwise as well. Sure there are a few Free Tibet rallys and concerts, but it doesnt change the situation endured by the people in Tibet. The world will look at Beijing in 2008 but forget that the dismantling of Tibetan culture is hidden under the carpet. When I conversed with monks in Dharamsala most of the older generation agreed not everyone is aware of the Tibetan situation, or even Tibet itself. Its either become a tourist attraction or a bumper sticker on your car. Western nations dont want to go up against an economic superpower like China. The younger monks wished for a protest or worldwide movement to spark some action. Like imagine if everyone in the Beijing Olympic stadium held up a huge Tibetan flag in the crowd, shown on international TV; wouldn't that spark a stronger debate or awareness into whats going on there? Whatever it may be, its going to be a long road ahead...for the people in Tibet now and for their kids who have to continue crossing the Himalayas for a better future.

Weird food or not in Beijing

Well not so weird, but quite famous, is the Peking Duck. We were pointed to this posh restaurant (in Beijing terms) that had the most delicious and exquisite duck ever. It was where Mao had dined and even Kissinger came for a visit. No restaurant in Chinatown can match what quack quack I had that night. And for 100 yuan a duck it was worth it to see one of the chefs roll it out on a cart and cut it up for you.But is the food good in Beijing? I guess its on par with restaurants I've frequented back in NYC (Big Wongs) and Charlotte (the Chinks). And I'm talking like the hole in wall joint down the road from my hostel where the guy cooking the food prepares the dishes outside in an alley haha. Maybe the food is just weird in some regards. For example, there's some good dumplings and meatlike Tibetan hamburger type things at the night market here. Right next to the normal cuisine are stalls selling scorpion, weird little bugs, snake, octopus, starfish, livers, deer, ostrich, fried ice cream and fruits covered in a sticky goo. Seems like the custom for the locals is to eat the weird stuff. But its actually expensive in Chinese terms (only a dollar, reallay) and I found out intended for the rich. For the rich in Beijing - probably because of this countrys economic boom - are the ones who dine on the finest Scorpion and freqent the best duck restaurants. You can tell which ones are for the wealthy too because the prices for a meal are over $10 and not $3 like normal. And I discovered McDonalds is on par with being an exquisite western eatery. Like they think McD's is the finest of what western foods has to offer so only the well-to-do can be found eating there. Pretty funny. And only the wealtheir may sport Nike shoes. And drive Ferrari's (theres a dealer down the road - next to the Rolls Royce and Lahmborghini ones). That was surprising to see, especially since I anticipated Beijing to look and feel kind of like India. After all, there are a billion people here too. But it sure doesnt feel like that with all their fancy malls and wide streets.

Beijing

So a while ago I moved on and away from the Japanese style of things. I'm going to miss these Japanese customs. Like wearing face masks if youre sick. Very easily could a Census worker count how many people have the flu on any given day in the Tokyo metropolitan area. Other stuff like funny hats, skimpy shorts in winter and mens fasination with porn. A fitting ending to my brief but fantastic stay in Japan: the little mini tarmac workers who pushed Japan Airlines Flight 789 onto the runway bowed tremendously and waved goodbye frantically to the plane as we rolled away. Amazing.
A drastic change awaited me here in Beijing. Well not so much. The first thing I see? Yao Ming and Jackie Chan VISA card advertisements in Beijing international airport. I forgot Yao and Chan are like national heros of some sort for their American fame and glory. I guess that explains why they would select Rush Hour 3 as our in-flight movie.


If there's any city with a language barrier its Beijing. There is no one that speaks English here. And almost all signs depict Chinese characters. Not so much a challenge to find the Airport Bus to the city center then another local one to my hostel. The challenge was communicating to the driver where I needed to get off. But somehow they understood Taiwan Hotel. Nah, thats not where I stayed. It was in the hostel in the back alley of the Taiwan Hotel - next to the largest, brightest AMP you'd ever imagine.
Every night youre solicited here for the AMP experience. Next door - the Wangfujing Hostel.
My experience in Beijing has so far consisted of the touristy stuff...like Tian'anmen Square. I ran into a throng of people gathered around the National Flag one afternoon.
Figuring it was some sort of showcase I stuck around till 5pm to see the flag being cerimoniously taken down. I guess their little changing of the guards routine. Its put back up the next morning with the same pomp and circumstance. I checked out the Forbidden City right across the street. Bunch of old red buildings with a lot of history. Maybe the pictures tell a better story. You can tell though all the frantic renovations are in preparation for a good image during the Olympics.

Speaking of which, Im not sure the city is prepared for such an event. Check out the Olympic stadiums...still kinda of a construction zone. Plus all buses dont convey anything in English, the subway has limited English signage and even the subway line direct from the airport to the city is still under construction. Some minor details I guess but you'd expect that with a worldwide audience visiting the city in eight months things would be put in place to accomodate the massive language barrier thats still evident here.

And because of the language barrier is why I can tell you this little story. Me and a Swedish traveler, Daniel, decided it would be more interesting to find a "local" way to the less touristy Great Wall section called Simatai. Well there are numerous reports online about buses that take you there. So we tried one way, getting up at 5am to search near Dongshishitao square for what we know now was an imaginary Tourist Bus Number 12. The people we asked - Daniel knew a little Chinese - pretty much said no bus here. They did point us to the other Xizhimen station are where the Tourist Bus 12 might also depart from. When we got there it looked more promising as other tourist buses were parked in a lot across from the subway station. But all the drivers and even the traffic cop - who was more than kind to help us - said that bus doesnt run anymore. They told us to go to Qianmen to find another local bus. Thats really the south end of Tian'anmen Square. Its a really freakin big square. We gave up and went back to bed at 9am haha.
We considered finding the other city 980 bus. But that only takes you to Miyun, just north outside of Beijing. Which by the way is a massive city but you dont feel like you're crammed in here with billions of Chinese. All the main streets are wide so its actually a very open and spacious kind of feeling. I definitely think there's more people in Delhi. So anyhow, from Miyun we would have had to look for a minibus to Simatai and read reports that the people there scam you into paying more than its worth or take you elsewhere. We booked a tour through our hostel. And at 190 RMB (like 30 bucks) it was well worth it to avoid the eminent hassle. And here it is...I present to you the Great Wall at Simatai.
As you walk up the Wall, you are followed by the locals who are more like souvenir sellers. This lady followed us all the way up - the whole 3 hours - just to sell some stuff at the top. Along the way she was like a tour guide, pointing out stuff and really a nice person. They just want to make a living out here. I bought a big ass poster from her. Even though it was kinda overpriced, at least she was able to go home for the day and cook for her 2 kids.This guy is the amry person assigned to the Wall. Its funny, when he saw us he ran ahead and hid behind the wall - because at the very top the wall ceases to exist. Well its actually crumbling and not safe to pass beyond the sign that reads "200 Yuan fine: DO NOT ENTER". So he's there to enforce the fine. But he just chills. We actually tried to bribe him to allow us to pass over and climb the steep crumbling part. Got him down to 60 yuan for the three of us but had to go back to the bus waiting to take us back to Beijing. I wasnt gonna miss another bus haha (recall my story at the Taj). The Great Wall: an experience we all should endeavor to see.

1.11.2008

Around the world in 2 Tokyo hours

We can first start off right at home in New York City with the esteemed presence of Lady Liberty herself situated on the man made island of Odaiba. Look further down the island and find yourself in front of the London Eye...or a colorful looking copy of it Tokyo style.
Then you can look across the water through the Rainbow Bridge (see above - which looks strikingly similar to the Verrazano-Narrows if only Mayor Bloomberg would deck it out in a rainbow silhouette) and see Paris. Or at least Japans version of the Tower Eiffel called uniquely enough the Tokyo Tower. Keep heading east and you'll find yourself in what looks like Times Square. But its Shibuya. Home of all the Tokyo lights, sounds, traffic and insane pedestrian crossing. The intersection itself is the mass converging of 5 streets. But when you want to cross, all walkway lights are red. Until traffic ceases to move, and they all simultaneously turn green. Thats when you just weave your way through thousands of people per square foot any which way you'd like. The end result might as well be a mesh network swarm of pedestrians forming the Star of David. And if you think its confusing just to cross the street here - try finding an address. Everything is vertical. 1F, 4F, whatever F floor you want. You just have to know how to read vertically.

So speaking of streets, I was out on the busy streets of Shibuya for New Years.  Everyone gathered around like it was Times Square.  But it wasnt.  Almost weird the Tokyo police were cornering off the five corners and the big screen jumbotrons were turned off.  We all thought there would be a countdown on screen...but no.  Just the roudy crowd of mostly forneigners and crazy Japanese counting down admist our own little corner mosh pit of fun.  


And that was it, Happy 2008 TOKYO style.  Not as eventful as one would imagine.

Its actually Japanese traditon to visit the temples and shrines during the New Year holiday. So I braved the immense throngs of revelers in Asakusa at the Sensoji Temple.  Never had I seen this many people squeezed down one narrow street like Nakamise before.  Well, maybe yes...in India.  But it was neat to see how the Japanese do to start off 2008.  And the next day the Imperial Palace gounds are opened, this the one time of the year, for the public to peruse in and also catch a glimpse of the Emperor himself.  So see for yourself, here he is.
My last night in Tokyo was spent livin it up in a capsule. Ya know those famous little concubines the Japanese folk like to squeeze themselves in. And thats it from atop Tokyo.