Czech it out

Mirror mirror on the wall, what is the most beautiful city of them all? Praha of course. They call this place the Golden City, city of 103 Spires or even the Paris of East Europe. Every building, untouched by world War II, still stand in the old city as colorful as an elegant amusement park.

The Astronomical Clock is the impressive centerpiece of the city center. It depicts the Earth as the center of the universe. Its also said that if you work on the clock you will perish. Literally did happen to a painter who touched up the clock, got sick the same day and died a few years later from it.

Most cathedrals in the city have dual spires. But upon closer inspection you can notice one is always taller than the other, yet they look identical. Thats to symbolize Adam and Eve.

Stopped by StJames Church, home to the largest organ in the country I think. While there they were busting out some mad loud tunes so that was cool. As you leave you can find the arm of a thief. It actually is the real arm, hanging there for centuries. He got caught stealing from the church. Needless to say the arm was all he left behind.

There's a Jewish Quarter in the city. Most buidings demolished from their original early 1900s grandeur. This area was affected by the Holocaust so almost all Jews here were targeted. Hitler actually allowed the synagougues standing because he wanted to have remnants ofJewish culture as a museum of an extinct race.

Did you know if you wanted to climb the tallest Eifel Tower you need to go to France, but to climb the highest Eiffel Tower in the world you have to come to Prague? They built a smaller copy and stuck it on a hill, making it higher than the real one if you consider sea level standards.

Charles Bridge - one of the more famous and touristy bridges in Praha. It's the only one left standing from wartime I think. There's guys like this all over the area. He is actually making music with cups of water. It was brilliant I say. People (uh tourists) come here to touch John of Napoma. He was an archbishop who got thrown off the bridge by the church or something like that. They consider it good luck to rub this statue. But tis not true...you have to rub the 5 point star - the place at which he got tossed. Ony the locals know the real place to make a wish...and I found it. Right in the middle of the bridge, up the road from the souvenir shops - which are all run by the Russian mafia. And as you make a wish, laugh at the fools riding the river boats. Silly tourists who are solicited to take a "1 hour river tour" which in reality is a zig zag ride within a quarter mile stretch of river confined by locks. Quite funny Id say. Even funnier? The statue of a guy hanging from a pole.
The dancing buildings. Czech cuisine? I had Euro hot dogs and goulash. Some local Czech cuisine at UVedovou. Where they played the video from GBII. I dont think ive ever seen it and to find it in Praha was funny. I left Praha laughing at those silly asian tourists again. Waiting for the Airport Express bus I tried to help them - cause they too were going there. Didnt believe me there was an express bus and took the local 119. As my express bus passed theirs I coudnt help but smile as them, looking dumfounded when I make my plane and they miss theirs.

As I was leaving the station, heading for Praha Airport, of course and undercover cop asks to see my Metro ticket. I was like bam son here it is haha. Dont even think about fining me like they do in Italy. Most of the time I hear they will get you as youre leaving town - obvious wıth a backpack on you. So you can pretty much try your luck all week, not pay for the Metro, and get a real ticket as you roll outa town.

On to Istanbul...

Getting to Praha

Took an Austrian sleeper train from Venezia to Praha. Quite the nice train. Woken up at 6am by loud Policia yelling for passports. But with me on the top bunk they never saw me. I entered Czech Republic unnoticed. Nice. When I did get there another officer asks me Doiche? Im like uh no. England? Yup, Im from England. Ok. And they let me stay haha.

Venezia

Mad water, no cars, lots of stairs and bridges. That sums up Venice. I think the gondola rides are overrated. Would you want to drop 60 Euro to float next to motorized taxi's and DHL boats crowding the canalways? How romantic. Go to Paris instead. People and especially the kids seem happy to live here. Red seems to be an underlying theme everywhere too - from street benches to church colums. I found a good pizza place. Now I see why people in Milan said the pizza sucked in Venezia - its round. But tastes just as good as Brothers Pizza on Staten Island. You know it'll be good when its an Italian guy behind the counter and all they sell is pizza - I skip the pizza/kebab joints. And the slices were massive - like mega slices. And if you're gonna get a haircuit - it has to be from an Italian guy. Who kinda looked like my old college IT professor Bruce Hartpence. And that was it. I spent a total of 5 hours in Venezia.

Firenze

I had no idea this was Florence. So thats why I couldnt find it on the rail map. They call it Firenze. The Renaissance and art museum mecca of Italy. From the museums to the streets you can find good art.Go to the Uffizi Museum - all the Renaissance art you want including the ninja turtles. There's also a Duomo here and this one is green.But the highlight is some guy named David. Continuing my sneaky ways I caught a picture of the real marble thing. Because there's also a fake stone one in this plaza for those who dont want to cough up the 11 Euro admission to Galleria Academia to see Michaelangelo's real masterpiece. I couldnt believe it...guess who I ran into? No not anyone famous. But Sara, who I incidentally ran into in Vernazza. And now here again in Firenze. What are the chances? Two times in two weeks? The stars must be aligned in some odd order because neither of us knew where we would be when. Of course that just meant we could have a blast again in another city. And to add to the drama...I ran into the pink haired girl from Pisa. How random. Like I was randomly running into people stunned at the sight of each other. But it just meant the city got better, for its not the place that makes it cool but the people you're there with. So all of us here took a city tour given by an Italian lady with a mullet. Met lots of more cool traveller types. We all went out to this stupid good joint called Acqua Al 2. It was a good time had by all. The Archi Rossi Hostel was one cool joint too. The place to be in Firenze.

Roma

I crashed here at Gabs place. Part of the couchsurfing idea. A good one at that to get the local lowdown on where you're going. So she was able to point me to the best pizza, best canoli and the best gelato in Rome - and quite possibly all of Italy. At least thats what I think since apparently the best pizza comes from Naples. The pizza guy was true Italian with a raspy voice like the Godfather.

So Roma is an eclectic city, historical and touristy mixed in with Italians making a living here.

I wouldn't live in this city, but its great to visit. You get to hear subways that protrude music like Coolio. Its nice to walk thru the stations and hear various types of music. Some sights include the wedding cake: and St Peters of course. It's nice to wait in line, read a book and ignore the "tourists" waiting to see St Peters Bascilica. It is impressive inside. All above the papal burial chambers. No pictures allowed, but we all know everyone comes to pay respects to JPII. Outside are the funny looking Vatican guards...supposedly very high ranking ones too.

Moving along I found the Pantheon - probably the most impressive and intriguing Roman spot. At least I thought so since I recall doing a 10th grade project on the joint. I think I drew the Pantheon interior and to see it for real was quite surreal. Did you know - the hole at the top is open so it rains inside? My favorite attraction for sure. So it was cool to see it in person.

Hit up the Colosseo at night. And stumbled upon Fontana di Trevi as well. Very cool places.

Another day, another line. This time for Musei Vatican. Almost two hours. People were crowd surfing in line. There were more asians selling cheap crap like scarves. The Indian guys selling postcards and weird toys. And the homeless elderly ladies begging for money. One of them crouched over like an L, hanging on to a suspect cane. As she creeped onward her back would falter even lower to the ground until eventually she collapsed to the pavement, hand still out begging as it blocked the line. It was a sad sight, and ironically right around the corner from the doorsteps of Pope Benedict too. Well its one of the larger lines in Rome so they know where to go to solicit coins. The Sistine Chapel is obviously the highlight...and where security constantly yells "no pictures!" or "silencio!" Of course I got smart, sat down, and snapped some good upside down between the legs shots of the interior. Dont tell anyone.

Met up with Gab and another CS'er for some stupid good Italian food. The restaruant owner was mad chill too.
Rome has some confusing smaller cobblestone alleyways which even the native local can get lost in. But we found a good place for some of the best Italian food I had yet. I gained back in Italy the 10 pounds I lost in France. Nice.

Found some leaning tower

Took a day trip to Pisa. Yea the tower is really slanted a lot. But another highlight had to be the best gelato I had in Italy. Just happened to stumble upon it on the way back to the train station. It was mad good. I also reaffirmed my pet peeve for tour groups, especially Asian tour groups. They just have no comprehension for the things around them; totally oblivious to their surroundings. I figured this as I looked on the train timetables and this Asian guy shoved me aside like I was transparent. Of course he wasnt, so me and this other girl with pink hair couldnt see the departure times through him. We laughed about it. Good to know there's other laid back travellers like me out there.

Karma

So the last night there I was out in Monterosso with Sara and another traveller. On the way back I took the local train. Of course that late the station closes but trains still run...so I didnt have a ticket. I'd been riding with no tickets in France, and on occasion here too between Monterosso and Riomaggiore. No one checks - at least when there's thousands of old fart tourists on the train cause they're too old to fucking walk between the towns. I couldnt believe how many people were here on group tours - mostly older ones who I guess discovered the secret of 5Terre. Ok, back to the point of this story: karma. Late night the conductor asked me in Italian something like wheres your ticket you little shithead? I tried to show him an older stub, but upon close inspection he could see the fine expired print. So he jabbers something like you pay fine. Which he wrote down: 50 Euro. I'm like yo I aint got 50 Euro on me and your stupid station was closed so how can I get a ticket?! Eventually he's like ok 5 Euro fine. Good enough for me. But during this commotion I hastily ran off the train at my stop. After getting off I realized my camara was no longer in my pocket.

I was like well shit this sucks ass. I knew it was on that train and had slipped out while I was stumbling for 5 Euro. Not to panic though, I whipped out the train schedule and figured I could catch the next one and find my train with the camera in La Spezia - the last stop. I made sure trains going the opposite way were not mine - it had distinct black and blue seats. Let me tell you the 8 minute ride from Riomaggiore to La Spezia were the longest of this adventure so far. I didnt care about the camera, but more for the memory card with my France, Milan and 5Terre pictures on it. I hoped no one had seen the camera and jacked it, or that maybe the conductor I pissed off would hold it. I got to La Spezia and tracked down the train. Another nicer conductor let me on, and a quick search to find my seat and there it was, my camera nicely hidden between seats. You have no idea what relief means until that moment. The ironic thing? I had to run and get the last train from La Spezia back to Riomaggiore. Which meant I got on with no ticket again. And for the second time that night I got caught. I knew now how to talk the conductor down to the nominal 5 Euro fine. I guess the Italian government knows those elderly "tourists" cough up the 50 Euro fine without a fight. Believe me, you dont have to pay it :)

10.1.07 - 10.4.07: 5Terre

Better known to some as Cinque Terre. I thank my cousin Sara for emploring me to go here. And it was indeed worth a visit. Everyone should come here. It's a world heritage site located along the western Italian coast between Genoa and La Spezia. I booked a crappy hostel in Riomaggiore run by shady Renaldo. Apparently when you show up at 4pm he isnt there. He's out doing the siesta break all Italians do in the afternoon. So me and the other travellers I met are just waiting around 2 hours for this fool to come back to his office which says is open all day. Believe me I figured out quick this place needs no reservations - you can just roll up and find a place. Anyhow, besides that it's spectacular. Let me show you why:

Riomaggiore where I stayed.

Some pictures from the 5 hour hike I did. Started in Riomaggiore and made my way to Manarola, Cornigula, Vernazza and Monterosso.

All along the steep and narrow paths you have time to see some spectacular views.

And between Vernazza and Monterosso is this guy. Local farmer who cut a hole in the fence along the trail to sell some of the best lemonade I ever had. Made right there from the lemons he grows on his farm. You must stop here. Dont be a tourist and pass it up. The most random event - I ran into Sara from Barcelona in the internet cafe at Vernazza. We ended up having a blast the next few days here. Went out to a great dinner place on the Manarola shore called Marina Piccola with other travellers and a local painter dude. Did you know pesto originally comes from this area? And its damn good.

30.9.07 Milano

My first impression was this place is very industrial and gloomy. The subway is interesting...the old style cars where the doors rapidly clang shut, making an unforgiving noise that says "dont even think about putting your hand in the door to hold it open". The hostel here was weird. Somehow they asked if I spoke Portugese? And the maps are all in Giponaise (japanese)? Weird and dirty was my conclusion. I didnt spend much time in the place. Spent Sunday with Chiara, whom I met on a tour to Stonehenge. She lives near Milan so offered me a great local perspective on the place. And taught me enough Italian to get by.

The sight to see in Milano: the Duomo.

I felt like breakin' out some spray paint and writing a C in front with a 2272 at the end. (Inside joke some of us would appreciate =)

Provocative advertizements?

More random city shots:

Some views from atop the Duomo roof:

The reason why there are no Starbucks in Italia: their coffee is like religious here. Cafés abound and little expresso cups stronger than anything we have in the States. Chiara had her local friends join us - I'll see you in nyc!

I am on the back of Raphaél's motorcycle. Yes, riding thru Milano that night was exhilarating. Nice way to end my stay here.

30.9.07 İtalia

What do I get on my first trip to see what half of my ancestry is like? Loud Italians. They were obviously on my TrenItalia train to Milan. Old ladies jabbering in what sounded like telecom speak. It was something of an adventurous ride. First someone was in my assigned seat. No biggie, I just sat somewhere else. Until we got to Savona - where someone wanted their seat which I was in.

A lot of Italian jabbering and I figured out my ass had to move. But during this commotion the police came on board. There was a crazed futbol fan causing a ruckus in the cabin next door. So imagine me moving my crap thru an already narrow aisle amisdt the policia ruckus and you have a sort of comical happenings going on. And no one spoke English! Yet I still found it amusing. Took them 30 minutes to get him off the train. Which was probably ok because Italian trains are notoriously late all the time.

Loud, chaotic and late - thats the Italian train system. I think its because more old people roll on the rails here. They take their time figuring out the shit layouts of each train cabin. Compared to the younger generation running to board French trains, no wonder the French system is more precise time wise.

26.9.07 the French Riviera

Four days along the French Riviera. I hung out with Öykü the whole time. Trips to St Tropez, Nice, Cannes and Monaco. Pictures tell the story.

A famous St. Tropez delicacy: the La Tarte Tropezienne. mmmmmmmmmmmm

My conclusions though: Nice.....is not so nice. Like a ghetto Paris. Nothing spectacular to stay for.

Cannes - well I was there a few hours and all I remember is it rained and I saw where they do the film festival.

The funniest thing in Cannes? For some reason a picture of whats his name on the side of the SNCf rail station.

I had to take a bus from St Raphael to St Tropez. The funniest thing was the typical French driver who actually got pissed at someone and was like bla bla bla le pew! and emphatically did the finger pointing spit thing we all make fun of the French for. I wish I had it on video. St Tropez was my favorite out of them all.

A half day trip to Monaco produced some great photos. The exquisite rail station looks like this. A short walk thru town and we found the Monté Carlo casino.And when you're there you need not worry about getting hit by cars...you have to worry about getting hit by Ferarri's. They drive them left and right here. Ferrari's and Lamborghini's galore. Didnt see any famous people at Café le Paris outside Monté Carlo Casino though. Just a bunch of rich pricks and their Lamborghini's with their swivel doors they cant open on their own but need a valet to assist with. Asswipes. Need a yacht?All of the riviera cities are within a half hour of each other. And somehow the SNCF train conductors dont check your tickets. So I was taking a chance rolling between all cities with no ticket (since my rail pass expired back in Barcelona). The karma should catch up with me I'm sure.

Overall I think most French people are jerks. From the garson who isnt very friendly to the people on the street who refuse to help you. There were some exceptions - every hotel employee trained in happy English and some old guys in Nice who helped us find the bus station. But most of them are shit. And the food is shit. I was so glad to be rid of those stupid baguettes they eat. Thats all I had - freakin' baguettes everyday. I must have lost 10 pounds in a week. They wont be missed.

25.9.07 Next...

And that was it for Spain. I hit up the graffiti train to Portbou, making the way to the French border at Cerbere. There were some weird cats on the train...like this guy who sang to himself in the train toilet. Really loud. I was glad to be off that thing. The Spanish French border doesnt speak English. I was glad I could sufficiently order a ticket to St Raphael in Spanish. The ride there was along the coast, pretty nice. I think French trains have immaculate timing and precision. They always leave and arrive on time. I had a 4 minute layover in Narbonne. My train arrived on the dot, the connection left right on scheudle. They make you move quick. If you aint on the train when the conductor blows the whistle the shit leaves without you yo. Imagine if Amtrak did that?

Another layover in Marseille. Looked pretty residential and industial. I was glad I didnt stay there more than an hour.